Greece is the most fantastic country. Wherever you find yourself you discover a myriad of diverse places, history and nature – it is ever giving and I love it.
But to start where I left off, in Nafplion in the week leading up to the Orthodox Easter, a very important week culminating in the sombre mood of Good Friday making way for a joyous explosion and cries of ‘Χριστός Ανέστη’ ‘Αληθώς Ανέστη’ (‘Christ is risen’ answered by ‘Truly He is risen’).
This is the week of my intensive language and culture course with Omilo – www.omilo.com
What a wonderful week I had, nervous to begin with, we were set tests to determine our level and I found myself in a lovely group with five other participants from Germany, England, Norway, Austria and France. We had two sessions of teaching every morning, conducted in Greek, really testing my concentration and listening skills and by the end of it I wanted to continue as I felt I was just beginning to loosen up. I so want the language to flow and it’s not there yet. After the moment, when I have time to think, I know exactly what I should have said but that doesn’t help. I become a bit tongue tied in class and forget the simplest, most common verbs. Oh well, not so bad, it just means that I have to do the course again. Two weeks next year maybe on the island of Lefkada, if that fits our plan – I’ll make it fit the plan. The teachers were empathetic, clear and inspiring. I loved the dancing and singing and finding more about the Easter traditions and of course meeting such interesting people, all with a common love for Greece.
The weather was a bit of a challenge as the first few days were windy from the north making it a little turbulent. The air was still cold – we had sun but as they say in Greece it had teeth in it! Along the quay at intervals there were very smart looking electric plinths that suggested we could connect to a power supply. We could have had hot water, a cool fridge and a heater perhaps, but on enquiry we were told that they were still not connected – I think five years late! Things were also complicated by the fact that our batteries had decided that now was the time to go into a severe decline, which meant we didn’t have a fridge and Andy worried. Our position on the town quay was sometimes interesting…….
As part of the cultural events we were taken by Dimitris on a walk around the town, the place that became the first capital after the declaration of the Greek State in 1821. Sadly the innovative Kapodistrias , first head of state was assassinated here by disaffected Maniots. We had spectacular views over the area from Acronafplia; looking north past the Bourtzi, over the shallow sea beyond and to the fertile plain and to the south a pebbly bay and the sea. Returning to ground level was a little exciting. We took an elevator down through the rock which deposited us at the end of a wide dark utilitarian tunnel like something from a James Bond film. Outside the light and warmth were welcome.
The afternoons were free and so Andy and I climbed the 900++ steps up to the Palamidi fortress, more stunning views.
Another day we took the southern route around the isthmus and down to Karathonas Bay where we had anchored maybe seven, eight years ago – ah time what are you playing at?
I took other opportunities to meander through the old town which is extremely upmarket. Nafplion is a popular destination for Athenians and at Easter it becomes even busier. I never did get to the new part of town which is quite substantial and might have had more useful shops for me. The old town has a large square which was a nice place to plant oneself and have a drink and watch the world go by. The usual vendors of belts and bags, large helium balloons swaying in the breeze and toys to tempt the children, toys that catapulted into the air and gratifyingly, most times anyway, came safely back to earth; boys and girls played football, roller bladers had a good route around the square and families promenaded.
We bought the correct candles and holders to stop wax dripping down our hands, to keep the candle lit and to stop us setting fire to anyone’s hair which in the crowded streets was quite a possibility. The correct candles are…….brown ones for Friday and white for Sunday. Throughout the day the church bells tolled in a desultory manner and even the sky seemed to darken. On this day, the women and girls do not work but pick or buy flowers with which they decorate the Epitaphios.
When evening came we positioned ourselves to watch the procession. Everyone held brown candles and we shared our light. The streets by the church were jam packed with people of all ages, some masked some not. Every church had its own Epitaphios and there are at least four in the old town alone. The Epitaphios was preceded by a crucifix. Bells rang and singing started, very soft and soulful as the Epitaphios was paraded along the street and around the town.
With the solemn ritual over, churches visited, icons kissed and candles planted, normal Friday evening activities resumed.
People went home for a meal or to restaurants with friends and family and some repaired to cocktail bars to continue their Easter holidays. We sat and enjoyed a Campari in a comfortable bar with a view.
Classes were as normal on the Saturday and finished with the presentation of certificates. We had been going to move the boat out but two flotillas of charter boats arrived unexpectedly and we decided against it. Some of our group were leaving but others were staying on for the evening meal preceding the Resurrection Service. Most Greeks eat after this service which doesn’t begin until 23:30! Just for us the restaurant had us seated for 21:00. We sat with new found friends outside and happily filled in the time until we were kicked off the tables as they had to ready them for the next sitting!
We followed the crowds once more to stand outside the main church for the ringing of the bells and the resurrection service. The light spread from one to another as darkness was extinguished, our white candles lit and we wished each other a Happy Easter. Χρονια Πολλα! Χριστός Ανέστη!
We took our light back to the boat, it is lucky, but my luck did not run to an Easter Egg, I did get a basket of flowers though which may be evident in some of the photos.
The following day we motored away and anchored very near in Karathonas Bay where we relaxed and watched preparations for the summer as sun umbrellas were planted and deck chairs brought forth
I also had my first swim – brrrrr! The usual acceptable temperature for me is 20’ and it was 17’! I know I’m a wimp but I let out more than a whimper as my body sank into the cold, there were a series of squeaks and gasps. It was perfectly lovely once I had regained feeling in my body, in fact it was glorious and I repeated it the following day. As long as the wind is not up to cool you and you have the sun to warm you all is well.
We left this anchorage early in the morning, breakfasting on the way en route for Koilada where Andy had been assured that he would be able to get the batteries that we need. All was still and it was a pleasant three hour motor. Years ago we had visited here and I remember it being gloomy and a bit depressing, just shows, what a difference the weather makes. The sun was shining on the large church, colourful fishing boats lined the edge and two shipyards were at the edge of the silting bay. It is shallow with a muddy bottom perfect for peace of mind and the anchor. We even got excited as we thought we saw a baby seal, it later turned out to be a large turtle!
The yard couldn’t have been more helpful www.basimakopouloi.gr from the lovely girl in the office, Konstantina, and the guy who offered to recycle the four batteries we were taking out. In no time they had been ordered and amazingly arrived the following day. In the morning I walked along to the boatyard and took a high route through the village; it is a rather sleepy place. Two small mini markets, always in darkness as electricity is used sparingly. The shelves were erratically filled, lots of empty spaces and little choice here but enough for our needs. There was a butcher, a laundry and a baker and that was it, a bigger supermarket fallen into disuse and disrepair. The view from my walk to open country side was lovely and the waysides full of flowers; deep intense red poppies, bright yellow daisies, thistle and grasses
The batteries paid for I returned to Selkie Dance who was now alongside the quay – batteries are REALLY heavy.
Konstantina’s cousin, Dimis, delivered the batteries and as Andy immersed himself with difficult, heavy and technical things and had taken away the companion way, I sat upstairs learning Greek verbs, reading, wordling and worldling – yes work that one out! And all the time I had to fend off the scavengers who swooped when they saw the old batteries. Like crows picking a body clean they relieve any object of the useful metal or other material that may prove saleable. I had promised the batteries to someone else so I kept having to send them away. I took a walk and found an Old Boatyard
After five hours the batteries were in place and connected but now the solar panels weren’t working. No worries as after a night’s sleep, the solution had come, a connection has been made and now everything is packing in the energy. We have the fridge on, I am charging my computer.
It’s a lovely morning so we have motored over to visit a cave. As we entered the bay I had noticed fresh white paint splodges at intervals on large rocks along the edge of the north side. What on earth were they? Later I noticed people scrambling along a path and even later in the darkness we saw an illuminated cave. I absolutely love these. Ever since I read the series by Jean M Auel ‘The Clan of the Cave Bear’ I feel I can imagine being in those times. This is called The Franchthi Cave, it is, “one of the most important prehistoric sites of the Greek area and one of the most important archaeological sites in Europe” It was first inhabited by Neanderthals 40,000 years BC and later by Homo sapiens from 30,000 BC. Isn’t it quite incredible to think about? What a nanosecond are our lives. But today, on a perfectly still morning with the sun warm on my neck, the smell of herbs in my nose I am very happy to be here now. I can sit and gaze for hours, at the tiniest of things, ants moving to some mysterious order, a purpose known only unto them; I can watch a minute leaf swirling in the wind; Insects are buzzing and the swallows scream with delight as they swoop and soar. In the cave it is darker, cooler and I imagine myself here as Ayla, having collected my berries, prepared the meal and settling into my animal skin for the night.
Wonders! We have mating turtles at the back of the boat. No wonder we thought it might have been a seal. These are huge; they are having a blissful time. ER, maybe bliss isn’t quite the right word as now we have read a bit more and realise that the male has been hanging on, even having to repel rival males while the female is desperately trying to breathe. The process, we read, might take a few hours and afterwards the male will hang on to his mate to prevent other randy turtles in the area from taking advantage – all to keep his genes alive! I have never seen such big turtles
Selkie Dancer Sailing 2022 